A POSTCARD from Cat Sarsfield

From Cornwall to Marseille

Amelia kindly asked me to do another takeover since I was in Marseille, a place I could definitely live in – and a trip I tried to get her to come on, but alas, she is the busiest person I know! I did bring my DARN scarf, first to adorn my tote bag, then to carry my underwear, and then to protect my head from the sun during the canicule.

Marseille smells like fig leaves, which strangely reminds me of home, thanks to the fig leaf cordial made by the team at Flora Café, and the fig leaf ice cream served up by Jess at Palais Provisions in St Ives. But in this heat, the smell takes on a different feeling entirely – one of romance and perhaps a little bit of lust. Marseille is a sexy city – perhaps it’s the salt-slicked coastal breeze, the tanned skin, the perpetually topless bodies. Everything in the summer feels charged, whether you’re sunbathing, wine bar hopping or boat tripping.

As I am wont to do, here are some recommendations for your trip, which you simply must take. Friends who live there tell me September is the perfect time (isn’t it everywhere?). Although this is the perfect week to come if you want to attend the opening week of Arles’ annual photo exhibition.

Tips & Tricks

1. If you’re a fan of seafood, the ponzu yellowtail crudo at Poissonerie Kennedy is a non-negotiable. Umami from the ponzu, peppery from the extra v, and the freshest, most delicate morsels of tuna.

2. Head to the 8th arrondissement and explore Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse. It’s a beautiful modernist building with perfect concrete curves, colourful ceramic inlays, glossy red elevators and a rooftop with epic views of the city.

3. As long as you don’t mind a crowd, bask on the rocks at Vallon Des Auffes. I spent every morning swimming there, and loved the energy – chic French women smoking topless, excitable Marseille kids ‘mooning’ into the water (a type of jump because they run in and flip backwards, in the shape of a crescent), and mahogany old boys drinking beers on low sun loungers.

4. Go for a glass of wine or three at Grenadine on Rue D’Endoume – they have an impressive (and very cold) wine fridge. Chilled red always goes down well. Their small plates are delicious too.

5. You can’t not eat North African fare whilst in Marseille – it’s the culinary backbone of the city. Head to Chez Yassine for Tunisian dishes, or round the corner I loved Restaurant Femina, an Algerian spot where you can eat a hearty meal of couscous, vegetable stew, grilled meat and the best harissa you’ll ever have.

6. Take a boat trip from the Vieux Port to Les Goudes – you’ll be heading towards the beautiful calanques and can stop off at Tuba for a windswept lunch on the rocks. It’s not cheap but the views are worth it – if you’re in a group, the Tuba platter is a must.

7. Anyone into homewares will need to set aside a couple of hours to get lost in Maison Empereur, a maze-like shop containing every piece of cookware you could ever need. They also sell beautiful French linens, traditional French workwear, and hardware in case you needed to top up your toolbox. Warning: you might need to add an extra suitcase to your flight home.

8. Café L’Abbaye is the ultimate sunset apero spot – order a mauresque (pastis + almond syrup served in a deliciously tall, thin Ricard glass) with a cone of pannisse (light as air chickpea fritters).

9. Just up the road in Saint Victor is my favourite vegetable shop/deli – Saint Victor Fruit Et Legumes. I always pop in to marvel at the colour-drenched aisles, especially all the fresh beans. Pick up some fromage, octopus, olives, tomatoes, figs and cherries for a picnic on the beach.

10. Malmousque is a great area to explore, from the craggy rocks of Place Maldormé to the lines outside Lou Lou for ice cream (my rec: the blood orange sorbet). You can also grab to-go salads from Cécile for another beach lunch; or head to L’Eau Á La Bouche for one of the best pizzas of your life (and that’s coming from someone who doesn’t love pizza that much). Wash it down with a bottle of Chouffe.

x

Cat

A POSTCARD FROM MARSEILLE